We Are Explorers – Ski Giants

May 5, 2024 mountaingroup

Pakistan 2021, a two-month expedition with a great team. Aurelia Lanoe with her extremely strong mental game, Guillaume Pierrel, who comes as strong as he is enthusiastic, and Tiphaine Duperier, my one and best climbing partner.

Written by Boris Langenstein

Images by Tiphaine Duperier & Boris Langenstein

July 18, 2021 / 2:12 pm / 7800m / Gasherbrum 1 / Pakistan

Four hours ago, it looked to be within reach.

But now, I have been staring at the same rock face for over an hour with nothing doing. The summit does not want to get any closer! We must face the facts, we cannot go any higher, the summit will elude us.

Conditions are perfect; no wind, no avalanche risk, it's sunny and good snow. But when you need four breaks to take two steps, and though you persist, you feel your engine will inevitably run out of gas. Hard times for my ego, I must admit that we are not strong enough this time.

Our ascent ends here, 250m below the summit of G1. Resting on my pack, I have mixed feelings. We often say that what counts most is the experience, yeah, right! Just 250 metres from the grail, turning back hurts. My hunger remains unsatisfied. All this effort for not much; leaving at midnight, breaking trail, climbing for two days, eating lousy freeze-dried meals and above all, living with this unbearable body that refuses to move forward and desires only one thing, to go back down. The emotions that are only felt at a summit will not be felt. We will have to make do with Google Earth images to imagine the mountains hiding behind the summit.

It's terribly frustrating !!!

However, although I am a bit broken, sitting in the sun next to Tiphaine with the Karokaram in front of me, I can enjoy myself, relieved not to have to push myself any more.

After almost two months in the mountains of Pakistan, our big vacation is coming to an end having gathered all the ingredients necessary to experience a beautiful adventure.

A little patience and a lot of perseverance!

With COVID-19 dragging on and flights to Islamabad continuously canceled, our departure date of May 15 is postponed day after day. Finally, after two weeks of waiting, we can join Ishaq and Nawaz, the members of North Pakistan Adventure who handle our logistics in Islamabad. To continue on the theme of postponement, during our transit in Istanbul, our skis didn't make it. We had to wait another four days and numerous trips to the airline office before reuniting with them.

Our patience and perseverance pay off in the end and the adventure can finally begin!

One step forward, two steps back

Smiling, we head in the direction of the Darkhut Valley in the Hindu Kush and the summits of Garmush Zom. Unfortunately, we are stopped dead in our tracks. "Politico-religious" protests have broken out and it is impossible to move forward or backward as demonstrators block the entrances to the towns.

Our team is stuck.

We wait all day. And only in the evening can we return to Gilgit, back to square one. The plan to head to the Garmush Zom sinks. We must find another base camp to acclimatize.

After flying over the Hunza massif on Google Earth, we decide to head towards the Bargrote Valley. We arrive at base camp a little perplexed. The place is beautiful, yes, but it seems less suitable for great ski descents. Either there is not enough snow, or the faces are too steep, rocky or exposed, or the seracs are too scary. After a day of exploration on the summit above our camp, we finally find our salvation. A few good possibilities emerge.

Ski and sun

In Bargrote, the stars are finally aligning and our expedition begins to unfold. We enjoy two very pleasant descents on 5000-meter peaks, where we are most likely the first to ski here.

Steep and airy lines where we can play on the edge of the ridges. In the background, we rest our eyes on the grandiose scenery of Rakaposhi, Diran, Bilchar Dobani and so on... In a few days, we have completely exhausted the stocks of this ski resort. The Bargrote valley turned out to be a good discovery, perfect for gentle acclimatization. And after a week in the sun, it's time to pack our bags. We hear that the protests on the road to Darkhut have ended, so our goal is to reach the Hindu Kush.

IT IS POSSIBLE !!!

From the last village, we continue independently towards Garmush Zom, two beautiful pyramids that reach a little over 6000m. On Google Earth, two very beautiful lines immediately stand out. But even when a line seems obvious from your couch, the real world can hold some surprises.

Discovering new mountains is always a source of excitement and uncertainty. The full face of Garmush Zom 1 and its 6220m lies before us, after a day and a half of approach. What a curtain raiser! And to our surprise, Google was right this time, IT CAN BE DONE!!!

The next day, we reached the summit of our first Garmush Zom, with a breathtaking view of the enormous Chiantar Glacier and Afghanistan in the distance. The ski descent follows the edge of the ridge first and then plunges abruptly down a steep and continuous slope of almost 1000m. The snow quality is terrible, but it's made up for by an aesthetically pleasing line! You have to like ice and hard snow. Nevertheless, it's good practice to ski in these technical and steep conditions. And I love it!

One night's rest and we continue with the 1400 meters of the Garmush Zom 2 (6180m) face. From below, it's impossible to imagine a skiable passage. Only once we reach the top 100 meters do we find the line.

Surprise, it's feasible, again!

After a 30-meter climb and the final challenges, we are on top. The line is even more beautiful, but the snow is definitely worse than the day before!

The objectives we set for Garmush Zom are quickly completed in two days with two summits and two first ski descents on 6000m mountains. It has been a good way to continue acclimatization in a wild and uncrowded place. Therefore, it is with a little pride that we return and head towards Baltoro.

Strategy and decision

After a few days in Skardu to organize logistics, ascent permits and necessary administrative work with the liaison officer, we head towards Gasherbrum base camp. After five days of trekking along the Baltoro Glacier with our army of mules and porters, we arrive at base camp. We are in the place with the highest density of 8000m mountains in the world: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum 1, Gasherbrum 2. Here, the atmosphere is a little different; we are surrounded by a dozen expeditions. The 8000m mountains are still in fashion. A marked contrast to the first part of the expedition, where we were doing 'exploratory skiing' alone, in wild places. It's good to have some life at base camp.

The main objective this year is to ski the French route on Gasherbrum 2, first climbed in 1975 by Yannick Seigneur and Marc Batard. It is located to the right of the normal route, which it joins on the summit ridge. It is a direct and aesthetically beautiful route that follows the spur line. Although protected from serac falls and avalanches, it has rarely been repeated and never skied.

Our strategy is still unclear. But we agree on the need to climb to 7000m to finalize our acclimatization so we can attack the summit at the first opportunity. Climbing an 8000m peak is often a matter of small details. You need to acclimatize well. Push yourself, but not too much. Don't exhaust yourself during long card games at base camp. Be patient. Rest. And most importantly, take advantage of a good weather window.

After two days at base camp and following the tracks through the icefall, thanks to the American guide Luke and his porters who had made them, we reached Camp 1. The ascent leading to the spur and Camp 2 is climbed quickly, but right after, we are surprised by a technical section on bad rock. A bit too optimistic during our exploration, we had imagined a smoother running route. Even if the climbing is not extreme, it is difficult to place protection in the rock. The pro is, at best, of questionable quality.

With our large backpacks and skis on our backs, it's not ideal. The leader climbs without a pack to fix the rope, then climbs back down to pick up their gear and climb back up. It's hard work and at our fast pace, it takes us 4 hours to cover just 100 meters! However, at about 6400 meters, we find the perfect spot for Camp 2. Tomorrow, we will be able to scratch at the 7000-meter mark.

We wake up, and surprise, it's snowing! Although the camp location is very safe, it's still a mousetrap. If bad weather hits, it will be difficult to leave. The slopes below are steep and prone to avalanches. After a long debate between staying one more night to acclimatize or going back down, we choose the safer option. As the snowfall intensifies, we abandon ship as soon as possible! The slope between camps 1 and 2 looks like a large 700-meter slide. With an icy surface, the slope probably becomes even steeper, but it must be close to 55 degrees. A great atmosphere for steep skiing lovers! We manage the descent on skis with concentration. Three hours later, we are back at base camp. It may not have been perfect, but we decided that our acclimatization is done.

The Magic of the 8000s

At the first favorable weather window, we set off to attempt the ascent to the summit. To avoid another weightlifting exercise by climbing up the technical part of the spur, we skirted around it to the left. This time, without any heavy effort, we are at Camp 2. No doubt, from now on it should be easy. One more camp around 7000m and we're done! However, as is often the case, things do not always go as planned.

On our third day of climbing, we only gained a few hundred meters. The crusty snow slows us down. Although the location is questionable, we unanimously decide to add an extra camp in the middle of a large slope. We rest. The fourth day brings relief as we overcome all the difficulties of the spur. It is doable on skis, but not easy. We choose to camp around 7300m for the last night. If the weather is good tomorrow, it will only be a matter of mental strength and enduring the altitude to reach the summit.

In the morning, the wind blows gently. It is difficult to find a rhythm between the snow and the rocks. As I have often felt before, at first, the summit seems inaccessible and distant. It doesn't want to get closer. You feel as if you are floating in water. It is only after a good dose of self-denial and hours of effort that suddenly, when you raise your head, it seems possible and you can start to believe that you might make it.

Seven hours have passed since we left. Bent over my poles and exhausted, I'm almost at the top. Tiphaine is right behind me, and we will reach the summit together.

The first ten seconds at the top are the best. The most intense. You wait months, days, and hours for this moment. Now you no longer have to look up, the entire horizon opens up to you. It's impossible to experience this anywhere else. In a few seconds, all the pressure dissipates. The feeling is difficult to describe, it's an ephemeral and powerful feeling that invades your body and soul. Finally, I can hug Tiphaine and simply enjoy the magic of this place. Damn, it's hard, but it's beautiful! Guillaume, then Aurelia join us, the four of us are happy at the top. The first summit since 2019 under the COVID-19 era. It's great, Raoul!

After more than two hours at the top, we return to the track, the descent is not easy to manage. The beginning is magical and airy. For 40 meters, it follows the ridge line between China and Pakistan. The rest is more complicated. After collecting our things at Camp 4, we continue the descent. A 30-meter rappel allows us to pass the first step of the spur. The slope is steep and exposed, the snow is hard, ice is always close, and the backpacks are heavy. We stay focused on each turn. Shattered, it seems more prudent to stop at Camp 3 and continue the next day.

We wake up to mixed weather and quickly finish the descent. The snow is still hard, but I enjoy my skis between the snow and ice on this giant slide.

We have just completed the French Route with a perfect mix of styles combining mountaineering and high-altitude skiing. It is always amazing to ski a mountaineering route; small satisfaction and great relief.

WE SKIED G2!

The Aftermath

After three days of rest, Tiphaine and I sought to take advantage of our acclimatization. The direction: Gasherbrum 1. We want to test ourselves, climb faster and lighter.

We headed straight to Camp 2 from base camp. After a few hours' rest, our goal was a summit push. We were the first alpinists of the year to climb the Japanese couloir. Conditions were good. After about ten hours, we finally reached the plateau at the foot of the summit pyramid. The summit seemed feasible. Only here, our bodies failed us! We didn't ski G1!

Four hours ago, it seemed within reach... Now, lying on my backpack, I'm frustrated.

Managing the descent of the Japanese Couloir is off the to-do list. A beautiful dream fulfilled. In this steep couloir, my turns had a special flavor, with G2 in front of me. Which was a wonder. I know that in a few weeks the frustrations will be forgotten.

This marks the end of a beautiful expedition, making me want to return even more.